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North Face of Ben Nevis

Or “Woolies prove their value”

Friday October 4th was our big hiking day. We really had our fingers crossed that the weather would cooperate and all would go well. We wanted to do a proper hike in Wales, but for a variety of reasons, this didn’t work out. We’d started planning our hike a month prior, and signed up for a Geotour with a guide to explain the rocks and underlying geography of the areas we were hiking through as we went. This seemed more interesting and sane than trying to take the fastest route to the top of Ben Nevis (which turned out to be in cloud the entire time) on a short cold fall day so we’d have time to get back down in daylight.

The geotour was really cool, and if you like rocks at all, I highly recommend doing one if you come across an opportunity. In addition, our guide was able to provide general commentary on the areas we were going through. You can get some of this from a good guide book, but nothing beats a conversation with a knowledgeable fellow live human being.

Water falling over deep pink granite rock (Inner granite), in the foreground grey anthracite rock. North Face of Ben Nevis

It wasn’t the roughest hike I’ve ever been on, but it was a serious hike. It was over 7miles round trip, and the uphill was steady and steep, straight into a headwind. When it gusted sometimes I just had to stop and wait for the gust to finish because I could not walk forward into it up the steep incline, or I wasn’t going to jump across streams and hop rocks while being buffeted. Luckily, it was partly cloudy yet rain-free day, which by all accounts is a rarity in the Fort William/Ben Nevis region. We could have done wind or rain, but not both. And of the two, I’ll take wind. That said, by the time we reached the CIC cabin where we ate lunch (access to cabin courtesy of our guide, a member of the Scottish Mountaineers club), I was hungry, out of breathe and ready for a rest.

Steep view down a mountain side with a trail following alongside a stream bed with green and brown heather and bog. In the middle of the photo is a treeline where the hike began, and beyond that the Great Glen and mountains on the other side. Sky is party cloudy, with patches of sunlight on the mountains.

What I wasn’t, remarkably, was cold (at least, not until we sat still in the cabin). I wasn’t even wearing my windbreaker once I warmed up. My wool layers were enough: Icebreaker wool long underwear (mid weight 220 – no the heavier weight, that would have been hot), Icebreaker long sleeved shirt, my new Jamieson’s of Shetland hooded vest, and wool socks (with silk liners – helps prevent blisters).

Once we’d been sitting still for a while in the rather cold (though wind proof) cabin, I had to add in my wool hat, brioche alpaca scarf, and cashmere lined gloves for a bit, with my wind breaker to top it off, at least until we got properly moving again.

Jaye standing on a large grey rock against a back drop of mountain raising above. Wearing black pants and black rain jacket, hood of a Fair Isle vest and small bit of brown alpaca scarf visible.

I have to say though, I loved the Jamieson’s vest. I overheat very quickly when hiking, and with a normal sweater would be been constantly yoyo-ing between just my wool base layer and the base layer + sweater. The vest kept my core warm, while letting me shed excess heat through armpits and arms. I could also either pull the hood up to cover my ears (I hate wind in my ears), or just snug it around my neck. Also, it’s nice and sturdy so I didn’t feel a lick of guilt subjecting my pretty new purchase to hours of backpack straps resting directly on it (nor is there any visible wear from this).

I did do a small bit of spinning when we were resting, but because of the wind and rocky footing, I did not even attempt any while moving.

Left hand image is a large slab of schist rock with a rocky mountain ridge in the background. I the foreground is a wood drop spindle resting on a red bag. Right hand image is a close up of the spindle and swirly texture ofmthe rock.

We took a different route back alongside the other side of the stream bed, working our way down until the path ended. Then we headed straight down across country through the heather and bog. Let’s just say it was very clear one per *cough* our guide *cough* was way more practiced at this. Ever feel you look too competent and pay a price for it? My husband, for appearing to be fit capable hikers (because mostly we are) paid the price of several tumbles into the muck as our guide trotted down the hillside. My boots are not, it shall be noted, water proof (I own waterproof boots, but left them in the states as not a good fit for warmer weather hiking), but luckily with good wool socks my toes never realized just how much water got in.

I mention this so that you, dear reader, will appreciate that the photos below, only possible by choosing this second route home, came at a cost:

Three images of sheep with white fleece and black faces going up a green mountainside with a cloudy sky. Left side is a close up of two sheep, top right is a long line of sheep, bottom right is four sheep, nomsky visible.

Sheep! Just wandering around up in the hills. They all seemed pretty impervious to the cold and wind.

Saturday we took the bus to Glasgow, spent a little time wandering the city, and had an early night to make an early flight back to Berlin. This past week has been mostly unpacking, digging out at work, overcoming a cold we picked up at the tail end of our trip and reassuring our cat that we’re home.

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